Venice, Vidi, Vici
Two things strike you on arriving in Venice: firstly, how delightfully charming the network of canals are, with their emerald green water and warrens of narrow, winding streets; secondly, how impatient and indifferent the Venetians seem to be to your presence. That said, all it takes is the enchantment of a pre-dawn walk around the quiet streets of the city and a peaceful sunrise at St Mark's Square, to realise why Venetians have a love-hate relationship with the camera-touting tourists they depend on for their livelihood.
Venice really comes alive with clear skies, so the best time for a visit is May and June, before the surge of tourists flood the island; stay in the San Marco or the Canneragio quarters, which provide good bases for day-trips and exploring the island.
Cost-effective accommodation in Venice is a nightmare. In Venice itself, it should be possible to find a double room with shared facilities for 30 euros pppn, in a 1-star hotel. There is a hostel located on the island of Giudecca, just across the waters from the city, but it is quite pokey. Cheaper alternatives include living on the mainland of Mestre, which is largely ugly and industrial, but has cheap places like the Bellevue Hotel for 18 pounds a night.
Once there, try to avoid the crowds (who can make Venice seem purely like a tourist trap) - wake up really early or take a night walk around the city. Visit Burano, the lace-making island to the North of Venice, where the grandmotherly figures embroidering lace in their multi-coloured houses are sure to charm. Murano, the glass-blowing island, is also worth a visit, just to see the craftsmen at work. Take the Waterbus no. 1 up and down the Grand Canal for the cheapest and best views of Venice's grand architecture from the water.
As for places to eat, Pasticceria dal Mas di Balestra (along Strada Nuovo) has amazing pastries - a must-try! Another restaurant well worth a trip is Ostaria al Vecio Pozzo (at S. Croce 656), which has very generous and delicious pizzas. And whatever you do, have some gelato - Paolin, at Campo San Stefano, will have you hankering for more.
As for some travel tips, desserts can come at a whopping price in restaurants; so unless a particular one is calling out to you, opt for gelato instead. Also, although the image of the gondolier gliding through gilded waters has been synonymous with Venice, do not feel compelled to fork out the hefty sum of 60 euros for a 50 minute gondola ride. If you do decide to go, though, stick to the narrow canals. Sitting on a gondola along the Grand Canal is much akin to being out punting in the open sea -- picture a tiny wooden boat being bobbed along with a lone man at the helm, battling against the raging waters. Finally, do buy an intricately designed mask - a trademark souvenir of Venice - but try to sniff out the gems from the duds. Real masks are either made from ceramic or papier-mache, and a light scratch with a fingernail on the back of the mask should yield some paint.
So how much will a trip to Venice cost? The bulk of your expenses (beyond flights) are going to be on accommodation and food, so it really depends on how you want to enjoy the city. The prices quoted here are for a slightly more lavish weekend away: for two nights' accommodation at a 1-star hotel, with a takeout lunch and a restaurant dinner (including estimated transport costs for island daytrips), 80 pounds should more than suffice.
10th Jun 2004