Spotlight: Letitia Wright

This year’s theme, focussing specifically on “catholic imagination”, did not allow for significant leeway when it came to its interpretations — almost automatically, one thinks of the Vatican and Europe when one thinks of Catholicism. Indeed, the response of most attendees of the Gala seemed to be rather eurocentric — even Rihanna was dressed (albeit […]

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The MetGala: Heavenly Bodies

The theme of the 2018 Met Gala – Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination – has had some mixed reviews within and without of the Catholic community, with diverse opinions across the board. The public display of papal artefacts alongside designer outfits might seem disrespectful, reducing Catholicism to a fashion accessory. Celebrities bearing halos, […]

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Celebrities turning fashion designers

In the current celebrity cult climate, famous people turning fashion designers comes as no surprise. Established fashion critic Suzy Menkes wrote in 2012 that “the idea that anyone can be a designer is not part of the culture”, and this notion stands truer than ever. Entertainers, socialites and celebrities in general have long had a […]

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From Dalí to Dior: How Art became Fashionable

The s/s 2018 runways were filled with artistic references and influences, however collaborations between the fashion and art world are by no means a new thing. The formalization of the relationship between the two likely started with Elsa Schiaparelli. Her designs referenced many art movements: Modernism, Futurism, Cubism and Art Deco, and she worked with Jean Cocteau, […]

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Fashion-Art Collaborations Dominate this Spring

This season’s shows were filled with artistic influences, references and collaborations. However, there was no wholesale appropriation of pretty pictures and prints into this year’s pieces. Instead the fashion houses, and the artists that they featured, approached the idea in a more conceptual, political or thematic manner. It did not seem frivolous, or reductive, rather […]

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The True Cost of Beauty? Wilful Ignorance.

Consumer consciousness in the cosmetics industry has been on the rise over recent years, with many beauty brands choosing to incorporate ‘organic’, ‘cruelty free’ and ‘vegan’ claims into their packaging; research companies have reported a 100% rise in the number of ‘vegan’ claims for cosmetics in 2017, but what does this shift in consumer priorities […]

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Fashion Photography: through the looking glass

Whilst absentmindedly flicking through a magazine, reading a newspaper, or simply walking around the shops, I wonder if you have ever stopped, paused and looked, actually looked, at the adverts.  And more particularly, the way in which women are imagined and promoted in these advertisements. Because if you have you might have noticed certain reoccurring […]

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Streetwear, feminism and the comeback of ‘ugly chic’ in the Instagram age

If you scroll through the Instagram feed emerging as well as well-established brands, like Gucci or Prada,it is almost impossible to wonder: has ‘ugly’ become the new chic? From oversized jumpers to tees with catchy slogans. From Birkenstocks and ‘jesus sandals’ to unflattering sunglass shapes, and how could we miss Gucci’s excessive prints. ‘Ugly chic’ […]

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Is Dior repurposing feminism for profit?

Christian Dior’s s/s ’18 show in Paris opened with a model wearing a long sleeve Breton shirt emblazoned with the words ‘Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists?’. The quote comes directly from Linda Nochlin’s 1971 essay about the limitations and difficulties that women who are artists face within society. (I would just like […]

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Tom Frame

Prostitution, social class and legal regulation in the history of makeup

The use of makeup throughout history has had its ups and downs. It often symbolised prostitution or social class, and even underwent serious legal regulation in England from the 1500s. The makeup we see on the streets today has come a long way from the earliest use by our ancestors. Egypt Our story begins with […]

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